Which acne treatment fits which acne
Acne is not one condition, so the menu has more than one answer. Blackheads and whiteheads are plugged pores; pink bumps and pimples are inflamed pores; nodules and cysts sit deep in the skin; and the marks and scars that remain after a breakout are a separate problem again. The table pairs each treatment on the studio's menu with the problem it is listed for.
| Treatment on the menu | What it is | Listed for | Time and price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Deep Cleansing Treatment | Skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation and extractions; the menu calls it an introductory service suited to all skin types | Blackheads, whiteheads and congested skin; a first visit | 60 minutes, $150 |
| Acne Treatment | The studio's acne session, described on the menu as targeting concerns like blackheads and cysts | Ongoing breakouts | 75 minutes, $210; three sessions $525; six sessions $925 |
| Hydrafacial & Acne Treatment | A HydraFacial paired with the acne treatment; Hydrafacial describes its facial as gentle suction, exfoliation, extraction and serum infusion | Breakouts with congestion, dullness or dryness | 75 minutes, $315 |
| Chemical peel | A chemical solution that makes the top layer of skin peel off; the AAD says peels help remove the dead skin cells and excess oil clogging pores | Breakouts and the dark marks they leave | 60 minutes, $300 |
| Microneedling with skin growth factors | Small needles create micro-injuries that the menu says stimulate collagen and improve texture and tone | Indented scars, once breakouts have settled | 60 minutes, $300 |
| IPL Photofacial | Intense pulsed light delivered in intermittent flashes | Red and brown post-acne marks; see acne scars and marks | 75 minutes, $300 |
Two of those, chemical peels and light-based therapy, also appear in the general acne-treatment information of the AAD, which describes what dermatologists offer rather than any studio's facial. It says chemical peels help remove the dead skin cells and excess oil clogging pores, that laser or light-based therapy "may be part of a treatment plan for mild-to-moderate acne," and that in acne extraction a dermatologist physically removes breakouts. The acne packages on the studio's menu add blue light therapy, a chemical peel and CO2 cryotherapy, and the menu notes that individual results vary. Which of these your sessions will include is settled at your consultation, not read off the table.
If over-the-counter products are not working
Give a drugstore routine time before you judge it. The American Academy of Dermatology says acne treatment may take several weeks to a few months to show a difference, and that it takes at least 6 to 8 weeks before most people start to see fewer breakouts. The AAD lists salicylic acid (opens clogged pores), benzoyl peroxide (reduces acne-causing bacteria) and retinoids (clear pores) among the ingredients used in treatment.
If you have used a product like that daily for two months and the breakouts keep coming, there are two sensible next steps, and they are not the same. For deep, painful nodules or cysts, or breakouts that keep coming despite good daily care, the AAD recommends a board-certified dermatologist, because the treatments that work for that kind of acne are prescriptions. For blackheads, whiteheads and the pink, inflamed bumps that over-the-counter products have not cleared, a professional session is a reasonable place to start. At Aesthetic OOGII that begins with a complimentary consultation with Oogii that includes an assessment of your skin; bring the products you are using, say how long you have used them, and mention anything a prescriber has given you. From there the first booking is usually the Deep Cleansing Treatment or a single Acne Treatment session; nobody has to buy a package to find out whether the approach suits them.
Cystic and hormonal acne: what a studio can and cannot do
Nodules and cysts are where a dermatologist comes in. The AAD describes corticosteroid injections for large, painful breakouts and isotretinoin for nodular acne that has not responded to other treatment, and for women with stubborn hormonal acne it lists combined oral contraceptives and spironolactone. Those are prescription treatments; a facial is not a substitute for them.
A studio session can still have a place alongside that care. The menu describes the Acne Treatment as targeting concerns like blackheads and cysts, and the consultation is where to say what you have been prescribed, because some treatments are not appropriate while you are on certain medication. If you take or recently took isotretinoin (Accutane), say so first: MedlinePlus advises avoiding waxing, laser skin treatments and dermabrasion while on it and for 6 months afterward, because scarring is more likely (MedlinePlus). Ask your prescriber which facial treatments are appropriate, and mention any prescription retinoid as well.
Before your first session
Every client is offered a complimentary consultation with Oogii that includes an assessment of your skin, and that is the place to say what kind of breakouts you get, what you have already tried, and what you are using now. The studio's policy asks clients to mention health conditions, allergies, injuries or recent medical procedures when booking, and some treatments and products are not recommended for everyone.
Know your acne type
NIAMS describes the lesions acne produces, and the type shapes where to start:
- Whiteheads and blackheads: plugged follicles; a blackhead has opened at the surface and looks dark because the air discolors the sebum. See blackhead removal for the deep cleansing options.
- Papules and pustules: small, pink, sometimes tender bumps, and pimples topped with pus.
- Nodules and cysts: "large, painful solid lesions that are lodged deep within the skin" and "deep, painful, pus-filled lesions."
How long it takes to see change
Acne treatment takes time. The AAD timeframes above are general information about acne treatment, not a measure of how this studio's sessions will work for you, and results vary with the type and severity of acne. How many sessions suit your skin, and how far apart, is something to settle after an assessment; it cannot be read off the menu. Sessions are sold singly and in three- and six-session packages, and series packages must be redeemed within a calendar year.
A close-up photo in the same light every couple of weeks makes gradual change easier to see than a daily look in the mirror.
Acne scarring and post-acne marks
The AAD notes that retinoids and azelaic acid can help lighten the dark spots that appear when acne clears. Indented scars are a different problem: Cleveland Clinic lists acne scars among what microneedling treats, and it advises caution with microneedling for anyone with active acne or taking acne medication (Cleveland Clinic). See acne scar treatment for that option.
What to do at home
The American Academy of Dermatology's everyday advice: wash gently up to twice a day and after sweating with a non-abrasive cleanser, apply it with your fingertips rather than a washcloth or scrubbing tool, and don't pick, pop or squeeze, which makes acne take longer to clear and raises the risk of scarring. Choose a sunscreen labeled non-comedogenic, and stay out of tanning beds. If breakouts keep coming after following that advice, the AAD recommends a board-certified dermatologist.
Hours, location and booking
Aesthetic OOGII is at 450 Sutter St #1530, San Francisco, near Union Square. Hours are Monday to Friday 9:30 am to 6:00 pm and Saturday 9:30 am to 4:30 pm; the studio is closed on Sunday. Oogii is a certified medical and clinical aesthetician whose listed expertise includes acne treatment. Current pricing is on the treatment menu, and you can call (415) 757-0265 or book from the menu.