Why squeezing blackheads backfires
A blackhead is a plugged hair follicle that has opened at the skin's surface. The National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases (NIAMS) explains that it looks black "because the air discolors the sebum, not because they are dirty." Scrubbing harder does not wash it out, and NIAMS lists squeezing or picking at blemishes and scrubbing too hard among the things that can make acne worse.
MedlinePlus puts the risk plainly: aggressively squeezing, scratching, picking or rubbing "can lead to skin infections, slower healing, and scarring" (MedlinePlus). The American Academy of Dermatology describes acne extraction as a procedure in which a dermatologist physically removes breakouts, and stresses leaving it to trained hands to avoid scarring and infection (AAD). Either way, it is a different thing from pressing at your nose in the mirror.
Which treatment fits your skin
- Deep Cleansing Treatment — $150, 60 minutes. The menu describes it as an introductory facial suited to all skin types that includes skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation and extractions. A full walkthrough of the deep cleansing facial covers what the session involves.
- Skin Analysis/Deep Cleansing — $175, 60 minutes. Listed separately on the menu, with the skin analysis in its name; a reasonable first visit if you have not been treated here before.
- Acne Treatment — $210, 75 minutes. The menu describes it as targeting acne concerns "like blackheads and cysts." A better fit when congestion comes with active breakouts.
- Hydrafacial & Acne Treatment — $315, 75 minutes. Pairs the acne treatment with a HydraFacial, which the manufacturer describes as combining gentle suction, exfoliation, extraction and serum infusion (Hydrafacial).
Not sure which one? Every client is offered a complimentary consultation with Oogii that includes an assessment of your skin.
What a deep cleansing session involves
The studio's menu lists four parts to the Deep Cleansing Treatment:
- Skin analysis, to see where the congestion is and what else is going on.
- Cleansing, to clear oil and makeup from the surface.
- Exfoliation, to lift dead skin cells from the surface.
- Extractions, to clear the plugged pores.
Ask at your appointment what to expect afterward for your skin, and mention any health conditions, allergies, injuries or recent medical procedures when you book, as the studio's policy asks.
Keeping pores clear between visits
Pores keep producing oil and shedding skin cells, so an extraction clears what is there now rather than stopping new plugs from forming. The AAD describes retinoids as working "to clear your pores" and treating blackheads and whiteheads, and salicylic acid as opening clogged pores and exfoliating the skin (AAD). Its daily-care advice is to wash gently up to twice a day with a non-abrasive cleanser, skip the scrubbing tools, and choose products labeled non-comedogenic (AAD). Treatment takes time: the AAD says it takes at least 6 to 8 weeks before most people start to see fewer breakouts.
If your skin needs a run of visits, the menu has a Deep Cleansing Treatment 6-session package at $650, about $108 a session against $150 booked singly. Series packages must be redeemed within a calendar year.
When it is not just blackheads
Blackheads and whiteheads are only two of the lesion types NIAMS describes. Nodules are "large, painful solid lesions that are lodged deep within the skin," and cystic acne is "deep, painful, pus-filled lesions." Those do not come out with an extraction. If your breakouts keep coming despite good daily care, the AAD's advice is to see a board-certified dermatologist, who can prescribe treatment.
The same goes for bumps you are not sure about. If something that looks like congestion does not behave like it, have a doctor look at it before booking a facial.
Where to find us
Aesthetic OOGII is at 450 Sutter St #1530, San Francisco, near Union Square. Oogii is a certified medical and clinical aesthetician. The studio is open Monday to Friday 9:30 am to 6:00 pm and Saturday 9:30 am to 4:30 pm; popular times fill up, so booking a few weeks ahead is recommended.